El Paso's barbecue sauce up to your elbows as quickly as possible.

When you step inside El Paso Bar-B-Que Company, however, don't expect picnic tables and sawdust, or peanuts on the floor. El Paso is an upscale fullservice, yet comfortable, barbecue restaurant. Rustic pealed wooden poles, stained cement flooring, ironwork and large ceramic pigs speak casual, while original contemporary western artwork by David DeVary, Mick Reber and Larry Pirnie give it a classy edge. A cozy outdoor patio is hidden behind an iron fence and huge, colorful bougainvillea. A large fireplace keeps it warm in the winter, and misters take the edge off the summer heat. Weekend patio diners receive a complimentary side order of live entertainment 7 to 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. If it's your first visit to El Paso, be sure to order Baby Back Ribs or Slow-Smoked Prime Rib.

They are customer favorites for good reason. El Paso's ribs offer a thicker cut of meat than most other restaurants in the Valley. That's important, because once you've eaten these honey-butter glazed barbecue ribs with meat that is so tender it falls of the bone at the slightest touch, you'll understand why more meat becomes a necessity. Topped with El Paso's homemade Texas Bar-B-Que Sauce, which is slightly sweet with a little kick, these ribs are a sure cure for bored taste buds. The prime rib, which comes in a 12-ounce or 16-ounce cut, has a subtle smoked flavor that makes every bite of tender, juicy meat a delight. Warning: you could get hooked on its mouthwatering smoked taste, making it difficult to enjoy prime rib anywhere else.)

El Paso's side dishes are every bit as satisfying as their entrees. The cornbread always comes to the table fresh, warm and moist. It has a dash of zip from jalapeño chilies and a hint of sweet. Its texture is moist with bits of crunchy grains of cornmeal, yum!

The creamed corn is beyond expectation. So, before scrunching up your face in disgust at the mention of creamed corn, know that El Paso's is nothing like that canned gruel grandma used to serve.

ABOVE: Owners, husband and wife Bill and Marna Prather.

The Cowboy Beans, on the other hand, are fairly sweet. What makes this side unique is the chunks of smoked meat that accompany the hearty legumes in their savory sauce.

Also note that El Paso's potatoes are mashed with their skins on and served with a generous ladling of creamed gravy. When it comes to dessert, El Paso is out to prove that everything associated with Texas is indeed big. The Cowboy Chocolate Cake and Colossal Carrot Cake are at least a pound of cake with six layers

each. The house specialty, Old Fashioned Apple Walnut Cobbler, is highly recommended. The bottom layer is comprised of thin-sliced, firm apples in a delicious cinnamon sauce that is just sweet enough to enhance the flavor of the apples, but not overly sweet, a mistake many restaurants make. A delicate layer of dough rests atop the warm apple layer, and on top of that is a huge scoop of creamy Dulce De Leche ice cream - start your diet tomorrow!

If you're too full for dessert, but still have a craving for something sweet to finish off your meal, try sipping on one of El Paso's White Chocolate Martinis. Served in a traditional martini glass with a maraschino cherry, chocolate syrup rim and Smirnoff Vanilla Twist, this drink tastes like dessert, but doesn't fill you up. Be sure to only down one of the babies, however, because they're potent enough that two could make even the hardiest cowboy trip on his spurs. AM

El Paso Bar-B-Que Company
4921 E. Ray Road | Phoenix
480.705.5050 | www.elpasobarbeque.com

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sun. - Thu. | 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fri. and Sat. | Happy Hour 4 to 7 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close Mon. - Fri. (drink specials, and buy-one-get-one appetizer specials and free chips and salsa).

ENTERTAINMENT: 7 to 10 p.m. Fri. and Sat. on the patio.

PRICE RANGE: $7 to $21 | Discounts: Early Bird Discount (receive 15 percent off from 4 to 6 p.m. Mon. - Fri.) | Frequent diner lunch card (buy five lunches, get the sixth free) | Military discount (active members of the
military receive a 15 percent discount anytime). Alcohol and tax are not included on discounts.

SPECIAL ACCOMMODATIONS: Ribs on the Fly (call ahead and order a meal to go, park in a specially designated parking place and your order will be brought to your car); kids menu and coloring contests; catering available.